Facebook Twitter K1-TEXT Email Print

News

News

Posted: Dec 23, 2019 2:01 PMUpdated: Dec 23, 2019 2:13 PM

Author, Veteran Offers Roadside Survival Tips

Share on RSS

 

Garrett Giles

You should be prepared for anything when you hit the road this Christmas.

Vietnam War veteran and author of “Roadside Survival: Low Tech Solutions to Automobile Breakdowns” Walt Brinker shares some safety tips for you to keep in mind if and when your car breaks down. He said you should never stop in a drive lane during a breakdown.

Instead, move to a shoulder, rest area, exit or parking lot. If there is no shoulder, and you are on a busy highway, turn on your flashers and keep driving until there is a shoulder to pull onto. You may ruin the cars tire and rim, but that is okay because you will be safe.

Brinker said you should apply your emergency parking brake while you change your tire in an emergency situation so that the car does not crush you. He said you should also place warning triangles around your vehicle.

75-percent of vehicle breakdowns are tire-related, which begins with blowouts, flat tires and loss of tire tread. The remaining 25-percent of breakdowns are caused by engines overheating, engine "cut offs," and much more.

A full Community Connection interview with Brinker will air this week on KWON AM 1400 and FM 93.3. You can hear the full interview with Brinker here. Below are questions and answers provided by Brinker for your convenience:

Why is the subject of roadside survival important to listeners of this program?

-          200 million licensed motor vehicle drivers in the United States expose themselves to significant risk while betting that they will not become stranded when they drive.  There are two kinds of drivers: 1) those who have experienced a disabled vehicle (and will again), and 2) those who will for the first time.

-          Each year AAA receives 30 million calls for assistance – just a fraction of total breakdowns.

-          NTSA estimates 5.8 million crashes of all types annually.  So breakdowns are at very least 5 times as likely as crashes.  I estimate the ratio is more like 20:1.

-          So, it’s not a matter of whether you will break down; it’s a matter of when, where, and how often.

-          Drivers can decrease the chances that they will have a breakdown and become stranded.  Some folks learn only by experiencing inconvenience, embarrassment, and potentially serious risks.  Others make the proactive choice to learn how to prevent problems and the methods to counteract them should they occur. 

Some folks ask, "Why should I worry about breakdowns?  I'll just call AAA." 

-          I don't knock AAA or other assist companies.  I can confirm, from having performed well over 2,000 free-of-charge roadside assists as a hobby, that they usually provide good service in places where they use their own people and equipment, although they're not always timely.  Problems occur with breakdowns away from their offices where they often subcontract the work to third stringers who are not competent.  I have seen a lot of this.  But why not focus on preventing breakdowns in the first place?

What caused you to start your hobby and write your book?

-          1980 assist (X-Mas season): jump-started car; noticed her relief & how good I felt

-          Began looking for other disabled vehicles; realized I lacked skills and tools, so began to acquire them

-          The book is my best shot at reaching those 200 million drivers!

What are the most common reasons for vehicle breakdowns?

-          75% are Tire-related problems which begin with blowouts, flat tires and loss of tire tread. 

-          Remaining 25%:  OOG; Engine overheats; Engine “cuts off” & will not restart; Locked out of veh

What about safety during breakdowns?

-          Several facets to safety

-          Getting vehicle to a safe location – may need to drive on a flat tire rim if no shoulder / rest area

-          Stay in vehicle / get out:  In drive lane?  Get out; Otherwise, better to stay in.  May need to stay warm.

-          Risks: Being hit by another vehicle, especially at night; Predators (walking or driving by); Darkness;  Insects; Too hot; Too cold; No water; No food; No toilet

-          Minimize exposure time.  Risk is a function of exposure time. Self-help may be best if help is uncertain or delayed

-          Illuminate vehicle, especially at night / limited visibility / just around a turn or just over a hill

-          Warning triangles: correct placement / reflecting vest / vehicle flashers / other lighting

-          Flares?  They have a shelf life, and they burn out.  Triangles do not.

-          Safe practices during self-help: While jacking up vehicle – level, firm surface; vertical jack-up; prevent roll with parking brake & chocks; place lumber under jack on soft ground.   Loosening lug nuts with cheater bar, not by standing on lug wrench handle.

 

What are the most important things drivers should do to prevent a breakdown?

-          “An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure”

-           “Listen” to your car.  It will “tell” you when it is about to fail.  Your job is to listen and act:  wheel vibration / mushy handling / pulling to one side.  Weak engine starts / dim lights / chirping.  Temp gauge reads hot (over 40% from Cold to Hot).  Warning lights, including “low fuel”, “battery” light “low tire pressure”.  Unusual noises from wheels, brakes, engine, transmission.  Funny odors.  Excess or white exhaust.  Fluid leaks.

-          Take vehicle to a mechanic to address what your car “tells” you!

-          Single most important item: ensure tires are in good condition – inspect by tire pro every 5000 mi

-          When purchase new tires, get “free replacement” warranty for damaged tire.   I have used this with every purchase of 4 new tires.

-          Whether driving, or towing a trailer, ensure that tire age is not over six years.  Date of manufacture is shown by the last cluster in the DOT number on the sidewall: “2310” means manufactured in 23d week of 2010.

-          Develop habit of checking visually for low tires

-          Check tire pressures each month, and before a trip.  Include the spare tire!

-          Correct pressures on label at driver’s door jamb: front, rear, spare

-          If tires are low, reflate them!  Most convenient: 12-volt compressor (use car battery or jumper battery); tire pressure gauge

-          Watch gas gauge; refuel at ¼ tank.  Critical with diesel engines since restart after running out can be dicey.

-          Keep battery connections tight (so cannot wiggle by hand)

-          Check engine oil; Add oil if low.  Oil is life blood for the engine.

Tire-related problems head the list of reasons for breakdowns, so how should drivers plan to contend with a blowout or lost tire tread?

-          Ensure that you drive around with jack and tire changing tools which actually work on your vehicle and its wheels (you need to verify that they all fit and work). 

-          Check for rounded lug nuts (or have it done).  Replace before the flat!

-          If rims are after-market, there may be a problem with the original lug wrench not being able to loosen and tighten the lug nuts.  If so, acquire correct size sockets and associated ½-inch drive tools

-          Know where the key to locking lug nuts is!

-          Ensure that you have a serviceable spare tire (maximum six years old), designed for your vehicle (spare tire rims are designed for specific vehicles) - fully inflated, or with means to inflate: like a 12-volt compressor.  Fully 80 % of spare tires I see are flat or have too little air to work safely.

-          Practice, before the flat tire occurs, removing the spare tire from stowage and mounting it on a vehicle wheel using the vehicle’s jack and tire changing tools. Check: lug nuts too tight?  If so, consider getting a 4-way lug wrench, or a cheater bar (a 2-foot long 1-inch steel pipe to slide over the lug wrench handle for additional leverage).  Does the jack function OK?   Know correct vehicle lift points.  Have the key to locking wheel lug nuts.  Refer to the operator’s manual when doing this the first time

-          Many folks won’t change a tire because they don’t want to get dirty or wet.  Changing a tire often requires getting down on the ground.  My solution is an old beach towel and a thin, cheap tarp.  The towel works on dry ground.  The tarp works on wet, soggy, even slushy ground.  Both will protect from ants – for 20 minutes!

-          Handling a blown out tire can cut hands.  Have a pair of leather work gloves.

-          Changing a tire at night is a challenge – unless you have a light.  Best is headlamp.

-          Once the flat tire has been changed and the car can be driven, the priority needs to be to replace or repair the flat tire

What are special considerations for trailers and campers?

-          Tire age: normally older due to neglect and mistaken belief that low wear automatically means tires are OK

-          Spare tires in good condition / accessible

-          Blowout rate much higher than for towing vehicles.  This can be a big problem on Sundays and holidays!

-          Have a proper jack, lumber for jack support, and proper size wrench for lug nuts (requirements often are different from towing vehicle); have more than one spare tire (not older than six years) with means to inflate if needed; ensure that the spare tire can be removed from the trailer for use (sticking due to rust is a common problem).

-          Jack is not needed for most trailers with tandem wheels: Roll the good tire up a ramp improvised with stagger-stacked lumber; the flat tire’s wheel should elevate too. NOTE: First, loosen the nuts on the flat tire’s rim.

What are the most likely reasons a vehicle’s engine will just “cut off”? 

-          Out of gas

-          Loose battery clamp (should not be able to twist clamp by hand) – prevents juice from getting to ignition system

-          Other Common but less likely reasons: Battery drained due to alternator failure; Poor spark plug connections; Blown fuse for fuel pump; activated fuel cut-off switch in Ford products

How can a driver reduce the chances of engine cutoff, and what can he/she do to contend with the most likely reasons for cutoff?

-          Fill up gas tank at ¼ full. 

-          If gas gauge is broken, get it fixed  (This is a common problem)

-          If add gas and engine will not start, Rock the car.

-          Check tightness of battery clamps monthly.  Tighten with combination wrench of correct size (8mm-13mm)

-          When clamps will not tighten enough, use “Paper clip trick”

How can a driver best prevent engine overheating, and how can he/she best contend with an overheated engine?

-          Watch gauge for high engine temperatures: If needle is more than 40% of way from Cold to Hot, take to a mechanic!

-          White steam from exhaust pipe: Bad – coolant is inside engine with the oil

-          If electric radiator cooling fans are not blowing when engine is hot, the fan motor’s armatures may be stuck; try, with engine off, to tap the fan motor with wrench, hammer, or something solid.  May need to “transmit” the tap using cheater bar, if cannot reach with hammer or wrench.

-          Temporary solution: Carry water in jugs.   Wait until engine cools before adding water.  Use a funnel to prevent waste

-          Special tape for water hoses; Duct tape may work in a pinch

-          Engines should use 50/50 mix of antifreeze & water year round.  Water will work in a pinch - to get to help.

How do drivers get locked out of vehicles, and what is the best way to not get locked out?

-          Lockouts occur when drivers change routines

-          Best solution: keep spare door key (without transponder, for mechanical unlock of driver’s door) under the vehicle in a small plastic box with magnets. These boxes sell for $3 at Lowes, Home Depot, and other hardware stores.

-          Place magnets on flat, untreated surface.  Place on vertical surface or other surface which will not scrape if vehicle bottoms out.

-          Stash ignition key (such as valet key or extra key) with transponder inside vehicle

 

What do you suggest drivers carry in their vehicles to contend with a vehicle breakdown and not become stranded?

-          Items I’ll describe are besides the tools which come with the vehicle

-          Road atlas / maps (in case GPS fails).  Walmart sells Rand McNally version which lists all Walmart locations: Great when needing a replacement tire, especially on a weekend

-          Old beach towel – use to prevent getting dirty when changing tire

-          Cheap, thin tarp – use when ground is wet

-          Leather gloves – protect hands from steel wires exposed during blowouts and loss of tread

-          Tire pressure gauge (to at least 60 psi) – some go to only 40 psi.  Donut spares need 60 psi; some trailer, pickup and van tires need 70-80 psi

-          12-volt air compressor: Suggest “VIAIR” brand.  I use Model 88J, high capacity, which clips right to a battery.

-          Cheater bar / 4-way lug wrench

-          Set of 3 warning triangles – First thing out; last retrieved.  Proper placement – incl when line of sight is short

-          Light-reflecting vest

-          “9-in-1 Safety Puck”: Hockey puck-sized flasher with choice of nine bright LED patterns.  Magnetic mount.  Great for night breakdowns.  I use two of them.

-          Pliers, to gain leverage to loosen rusted wing nuts holding a spare tire

-          Piece of treated plywood board 8” X 8”X ½” thick to place under vehicle jack to distribute the vehicle’s weight on soft/uneven ground or sand, stabilize the jack, and prevent it from sinking or sliding.  Keep base of jack horizontal, so lift is vertical

-          Headlamp (fits on a strap around your head: works much better than a flashlight) in case the breakdown occurs at night.  Check its batteries. 

-          Battery terminal brush – includes male and female components to clean both posts and clamps. 

-          Jumper cables: Thick, heavy duty (2- or 4-gauge), 20-feet long cables to permit jump starts, and remote battery charges, without having to put vehicles front-to-front, or even side-by-side.

-          Portable jumper battery with short cables can be used to jump start an engine with a weak battery and power a 12-volt air compressor, or cell phone.  Many such batteries lack sufficient power to jump start a large engine with a dead battery (so then use jumper cables).  Typically, portable jumper batteries feature a lamp to illuminate night time tire changes, and jumps.   These batteries require charging after each use, and monthly.  Total loss of charge kills these batteries.  Now, I use “Jump & Carry” JNC-660, modest size and weight, yet very powerful (1700 amps).

-          Flat, thin “combination” wrench (“open” on one end; “box” on the other), or ¼-inch drive socket wrench, for battery clamps:  Range of sizes of nuts on battery clamps is 8mm – 13 mm.  Most common size is 10 mm.  Adjustable monkey wrenches do not work since their heads are too thick and bulky.

-          1-gallon gas can (empty) which can be used to bring fuel from a gas station

-          If rims are after-market, you may need tools that did not come with the car to loosen and tighten the lug nuts.

-          Set of two tough plastic wheel chocks to place under wheel (diagonally opposite the wheel with flat) to prevent the vehicle from rolling while being lifted and while jacked up. 

-          Gallon of water, in case the engine cooling system has run low, and for long trips – especially in hot weather or in mountains if your vehicle’s engine has shown any inclination to overheat. 

-          Extra quart of engine oil, in case the engine overheats and turns out to be low on oil. 

-          Funnels to prevent waste and spills when pouring fuel, oil, water or coolant.

-          Door key under vehicle in a plastic box w magnets

Tire plug kit (This could save having to use the spare, if the tire was flattened by a nail or screw in the tread and the sidewalls were not damaged after the flat occurred).  You’ll normally need first to remove the flat tire, and reflate it with 12-volt compressor after plugging.  Spraying soapy water on the tire can help locate the leak and confirm its repair.  Plug repairs should be considered temporary; follow up at a shop with a pat


« Back to News